1950s Open Crochet Medallion

(Free Pattern Below!)

The crochet motif in the June issue was interesting to me. The original photo didn’t show the entire piece as being crochet. It looked almost like they were sewn together in some special way, but I knew that was unlikely. I also really loved the idea of a very light, lacy scarf done with the motif, something very wispy. So I browsed my yarn stash and thought a nice silk thin gray would be nice. It would be more substantial then something very lacy, like the mohair I originally imagined, but I thought the end result would be very nice. If you follow me on Instagram, you may have seen my yarn balling mishap. While balling the hank the last bit fell of the chair back I was using as a yarn swift and turned into quite a knot. Eventually I gave up on unknotting it, and figured I’ll felt it into a dryer ball or something. (If you are curious, yes I own a ball winder, two actually, and also a swift. Just couldn’t find them that day.)

I had a bit of a struggle to get the stitches to line up properly, and included my notes in the pattern. It took me a few attempts to make a square that worked. One row in particular was tricky when I tried it as written. I made a simple change and it worked great.

I started with the gray and made a few motifs. I do like it, but it is not as drapey as I thought it would be. I talked about it in one of my weekly workbasket posts.  After thinking about it I decided to try the pattern in another yarn size, and see what I thought. It works great in a worsted yarn, BUT I wouldn’t make an afghan out of it. The holes end up quite large and it would be quite a toe snagger. Do with that info what you will.

There is quite a size difference between the two. I thought the gray was a fingering weight, and it feels like it to me, but is labeled a lace weight. It is on the thick side of a lace weight yarn. The colorful block is made from the collar of the rainbow shawl (which is still sitting by, cursed and waiting.)

It is a super cute motif.


The Pattern:

Ch 8, join into a ring

Round 1- Ch 3 for first dc, 23 dc in ring (24 dc in all) join

Round 2- Ch 3 for first dc, DC in each of next 3 dc *ch 9, sk 2 dc, dc in each of next 4 dc, repeat from * twice, chain 9 join with sl st in third chain of beginning chain.

Round 3- Ch 3, dc in each of next 3 dc, *make (4dc, ch 5, 4 dc) all in chain 9 loop space, dc in  each of next 4 dc, Repeat from * twice, complete corner section again, join.

Round 4- Ch 4, *sk 1 dc or stitch, ch 1, dc in next dc or space, In each corner space make 3 of these stitch combos. Here is where it gets tricky- I could only get the next round to work if I made sure that the space next to each corner space had a stitch. So in some spaces I didn’t skip a space like it says. I could not get the next row to work properly without doing this. This round is easily the hardest round, and that is the only way I could get the next round to work. So make sure each space next to the corner has a stitch. Look carefully at my square or the original picture if you need to.

Round 5- ch 4, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sl st back in same space to make a picot. Continue around block, make 2 picot stitches in each corner. Join.

You can join additional motifs at the picots.

I’d suggest keeping this to a smaller yarn or thread. It would make a beautiful light afghan, or thread weight table cloth! A few could make a cuff bracelet, or maybe a hat band. I’d love to see what you do with it!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *